-- Worldwide Ski Resorts - Austria - Ischgl --

This compact village on the Swiss border is the picture postcard to send home with traditional style Tyrolean chalets and beautiful scenery. Any new buildings are very much in keeping with the Austrian village life. It is set in a narrow valley and some of the village is high up between two rivers which converge here. The centre is a car free zone and has an upmarket feel with luxury hotels and lively nightclubs. The valley rises steeply from the heart of the village and with plenty of trees early in the season the sun can be limited. From the centre there runs an underground moving walkway which leads to the lifts.

Being high snow is reliable here and with the slopes above the tree line it can be rather challenging in bleak weather. Some ski routes have been given piste status having been restored and previously been unsafe to ski alone. A usual practise in Austria is the lifts closing around 4 p.m. and Ischal is no exception. There is a modern lift system which is superb and there are 42 lifts in total.

The slopes range from around 4,500 to 9,500 ft and the plateau at Idalp is the hub. It can be busy especially if the meeting time for ski schools. 61% of the runs are Red, 18% Blue and 21% Black. The main Red Runs from Idalp to Ischgl can be difficult, for a quieter run Velilltal which was a ski route and now a piste fits the bill. In fact some choose to go down on the Gondola. Alp Trida is the centre on the Swiss side with south and east facing runs. Beginners may find the slopes intimidating but for the intermediates there are good runs.

Although snow is good this is backed up with snowmaking on some needy slopes. Having mentioned Beginners and Intermediates the Experts will not be challenged on piste but with a guide off piste is terrific. Cross Country there is 30 miles of track very pretty but can lack sun early season and being remote from the main runs meeting up for lunch with friends enjoying downhill is not very convenient. Ski classes are reputed to be good but English speaking instructors is limiting. As well as the usual lessons schools do organise some off piste tours. The mountain restaurants are mostly table service but some self service is available. On the Swiss side it tends to be quieter at lunchtime but the food and service is good in all areas and the puddings will be tempting inspiring an active post lunch skiing.

Staying in hotels visitors tend to eat in and then relax in the bar. But mostly the trend is to go out and sample the nightlife. It is very lively with plenty of drinking and clubs with exotic dancers. It may appear to be a taste of Soho with lap dancers and pole dancing but not classed as seedy. Some bars are known as cigars and cocktails while others entertain with live music and plenty of bands. If food is a priority just take your pick from pizzas to traditional Austrian fare - be prepared for huge portions. Fondue is always a favourite and brings with it a real party theme.

Even if the staff has limited English they are friendly and helpful. With 4 miles of floodlit toboggan runs and 15 miles of marked walks and a sports centre with all the equipment it is easy to keep the active programme going when off the skis. Plenty of upmarket shops if you want to purchase a little something by Versace or update your ski wear in one of the many ski shops. For those not skiing buying a Smugglers' Pass allows use of selected lifts and the opportunity to meet up with friends for a mountain restaurant lunch.